We spent a very happy few days in Ostia Antica, near Rome, with Carla Tomasi earlier this month. We ate like royalty and had a wonderful time cooking with and learning from Carla. Over the coming weeks I will share some of the recipes I recorded in my notes as I recreate them at home.
The first recipe I want to share is for griddled, sweet-and-sour marinated pumpkin or squash, known in Italian as zucca in agrodolce. Carla told me she was reminded of this Sicilian-style preparation by a friend, and it’s a simple dish that showcases the balance of sweetness and acidity that lifts autumn squash into something special.
I used a padana squash that we grew last year and found its firm texture and sweet flesh ideal for grilling or griddling. At Carla’s, she varied the recipe by adding fresh mint, parsley and a little chilli to the vinegar when assembling the marinade. For my version I used a blend of Emperor’s mint and oregano and both of us used apple cider vinegar to give a bright tartness that contrasts beautifully with the natural sweetness of the squash.
The cooking itself is straightforward. The squash is peeled and cut into pieces that will char nicely on a hot griddle or heavy skillet. After grilling until caramelised, the pieces are tossed immediately in a dressing of vinegar, oil and seasoning so the hot squash soaks up the flavours. Letting the dish rest for several hours or overnight enhances the interplay between the sweet caramelised notes and the sharp, aromatic marinade.
At Carla’s house we enjoyed the zucca in agrodolce alongside a Roman-style pan-roast lamb, which made for an indulgent meal. The next day, the same preparation featured as part of a large lunch with friends, and the flavours were even better after sitting together for a while. I also served it with roasted chicken and a pile of dressed lentils; the acidity in the squash provides a lovely counterpoint to the earthy lentils and simply roasted meat.
One of my favourite uses for leftover agrodolce squash is to chop the pieces into smaller bites and toss them through pasta — penne is particularly good — along with a splash of the marinade and a scattering of fresh herbs and grated cheese. The result is an easy, flavourful pasta that tastes like a composed dish despite minimal effort.
This simple preparation is flexible and lends itself to small variations depending on what you have on hand. Try experimenting with different herbs — mint, parsley, oregano or thyme all work — and adjust the vinegar-to-oil ratio to your taste. A touch of chilli flakes brings warmth if you like a little heat, while a spoonful of honey or a sprinkle of sugar can be used to temper very acidic vinegars. For oil, use a good-quality extra virgin olive oil when possible; it complements the natural sweetness of the squash.
Serving suggestions include: as a side to roasted or grilled meat; as a topping for crostini or bruschetta; folded into salads of grain such as farro or barley; stirred into warm lentils; or simply served cold as part of an antipasti selection. It stores well in the refrigerator for several days and often tastes even better the next day once the flavours have had time to meld.
This is an uncomplicated, elegant dish that makes the most of seasonal produce. If you try it, I’d love to hear how you served it and any variations you discover. Buon appetito!