I’m ashamed to admit that after all the years I’ve travelled to New Zealand, I had never visited Wellington until recently.
Better late than never — my short stay more than made up for lost time.
Three fellow food bloggers and I crossed the Tasman to be in Wellington for the opening weekend of the Wellington on a Plate food and wine festival.
And sample we did.
We enjoyed outstanding meals at top restaurants, tasted excellent wines, visited intimate cocktail bars, met passionate producers and winemakers, and drank some of the best coffee I’ve ever had.
Yes — the coffee is that good.
Wellington is New Zealand’s capital, located on the southwestern tip of the North Island. The city is encircled by hills and a rugged coastline and sits on a beautiful harbour.
Beyond its food, wine and coffee, Wellington is widely regarded as the nation’s centre for art, culture, fashion and nightlife. For a compact city it has a lively, creative energy.
Walking the streets you sense a youthful vibrancy — perhaps fuelled by the excellent coffee.
I learned, too, that many Greek migrants settled in Wellington. I met one on this trip who will appear in a future post about coffee. For another perspective, Maria’s blog recounts life growing up in Wellington from someone who now lives in Crete.
After an early flight and adjusting to the two-hour time difference, Helen and I checked into the Bolton Hotel. The rooms were spacious and comfortable, equipped with modern conveniences including free wifi. The staff were helpful and good-humoured — they had a fun time trying to pronounce my long Greek surname, so they called me Mr G.
If I were to compare it to another city, Wellington gives off a distinct San Francisco vibe: cool, eclectic and a blend of traditional and modern influences. It even shares the trademark gusty weather.
After freshening up we headed to Te Papa to meet the group for a tasting of traditional Māori foods followed by a museum tour.
Te Papa — which translates as “treasures of Mother Earth” — is New Zealand’s national museum. I often find museums hit-or-miss on trips, but Te Papa is different: it’s highly interactive, covering the environment, native flora and fauna, and the stories of the indigenous Māori people.
Our guide, Rangimoana Taylor, was a highlight. He combined deep knowledge with a wicked sense of humour and delivered the stories in a way that kept everyone engaged.
Rangimoana explained native herbs and leaves and their traditional uses. We sampled kawakawa, a herbal tea infused with ginger — delightful, but with a cheeky warning about its effects if overconsumed.
We tried rewena, a Māori bread similar to brioche; kumara chips made from sweet potato; and the famous manuka honey, renowned for its antiseptic and healing qualities.
The museum also houses a gigantic squid — truly enormous — which sparked a few jokes about calamari.
Rangimoana shared traditional stories passed down through generations and explained their cultural significance. I noticed parallels with the Greek myths I learned at school, and he welcomed the comparison. The narratives were captivating.
The visit culminated at the marae, the communal meeting house, where Rangimoana welcomed us first in Māori and then in English. Sitting quietly as he recited powerful phrases was a moving experience — one that left many of us speechless.
The marae itself is richly decorated with intricate wooden carvings representing the many cultures that have come to New Zealand. Ninety minutes was hardly enough time to take it all in.
Next time I’ll allow more time to explore Te Papa properly.
This was only a taste of our first day in Wellington. I have much more to share about the city and its food scene in upcoming posts.
Souvlaki For The Soul attended Wellington on a Plate as a guest of Positively Wellington Tourism.